Q: Is there a reason to use butter instead of margarine when called for in a recipe? And should I use salted or unsalted when baking?

Dear Baker: Most bakers consider butter irreplaceable for its flavor and performance. Butter tenderizes and adds flakiness. It creates a golden-brown color and crisp textures. Butter makes cakes light and helps hold the shape of cookies. Butter is a flavor carrier; it carries the flavor of vanilla, almond, herbs, spices, etc.

Both butter and margarine are 80 percent fat (see glossary), so in this criteria they perform similarly. Many people prefer butter for the taste it imparts in baking.

Tips: When a recipe calls for butter, do not substitute spreads from sticks or tub containers.

"Softened" butter means to soften the butter only until it can be combined with the sugar or other ingredients. Do not let it melt or get "gooey" soft - the butter stick or piece should still hold its shape.

Salted or unsalted? Either salted or unsalted butter can be used in any recipe. It is not necessary to omit or add salt. Using one or the other is sometimes a regional taste preference or choice of chefs who want to control the amount of salt in a recipe.